Choosing shoes and making them last

Length is not everything

Even at the same size, the width of the forefoot and the height of the instep vary between brands and models. That is where shoes that fit in length yet pinch, or slip off at the heel, come from. Buying by number alone gives a lower chance of a good fit than you might expect, so try them on where possible, and if not, check the exchange terms first. Most people's two feet also differ slightly in size, and the rule is to fit the larger foot. The smaller one can be adjusted with insoles or lacing, whereas a shoe that is too small is hard to stretch.

Measuring your own feet

To measure foot length, stand on a sheet of paper with your heel against a wall, mark the tip of your longest toe and measure the distance. Measuring while seated takes weight off the foot and gives a smaller figure, so always stand. Foot width is the distance across the widest points at the base of the big toe and little toe. These are barefoot figures; shoe sizes add some allowance on top. Korean millimetre sizing is close to foot length and fairly intuitive, but for other systems always use the brand's conversion chart.

What to check when trying shoes on

Feet swell slightly over the day, so shoes that fit perfectly in the morning often pinch by evening. Trying shoes on in the afternoon or evening is closer to real conditions. It also matters to wear the socks you will actually wear with them. In the shop, do not just sit; walk a few steps, and if possible check how your heel and toes move on stairs or a slope. The idea that shoes stretch with wear is partly true for leather uppers, but sole length and synthetic materials barely stretch at all.

• About a fingertip's width of space in front of the big toe
• No pressure across the widest part of the foot
• The heel does not lift when walking
• Check with the socks you normally wear
• Wear both shoes and walk a few steps

Rotating pairs makes them last

A shoe worn all day holds a good deal of sweat, which takes close to a day to dry. Wearing the same pair daily keeps them damp, causing odour and faster wear. Simply alternating two pairs noticeably extends the life of each. After taking them off, remove the insoles if possible and dry them separately, and put shoe trees or newspaper inside leather shoes to reduce creasing and loss of shape. A shoe cabinet kept closed all the time also traps damp, so air it out now and then and keep a moisture absorber inside to prevent mould.

Care by material

Shoes need different care depending on the material. The shared principle is to brush off dirt first and use as little water and heat as possible. Putting whole shoes in a washing machine can weaken the glue and distort the shape, so only do it when the shoe label or the maker's instructions allow it.

• Leather: brush off dust, moisturise with cream, wipe off water at once
• Suede and nubuck: use a dedicated brush with the nap; water-sensitive, so use a protective spray
• Fabric and canvas: spot-clean with a brush and mild detergent, dry in the shade
• Synthetics and mesh: wipe with a damp cloth, avoid high heat

When they get wet

Using a heater or a hot hairdryer to speed up drying rain-soaked shoes can loosen glued seams and deform the material. Stuff them with newspaper or a dry cloth to absorb moisture, replacing it every few hours while it is wet, and let them dry in a ventilated, shaded spot. Direct sunlight also causes fading and cracking. Leather stiffens as it dries, so applying a conditioner afterwards helps prevent cracks.

When to replace them

Even when the outside looks fine, the cushioning in the sole goes first. Running shoes in particular lose shock absorption after a certain distance regardless of how they look, putting more strain on knees and feet. If the tread is badly worn on one side only, or you tire more quickly when walking in them than before, it is time to replace them. A worn-through heel lining that rubs your foot is another sign. If foot or knee pain continues even after changing shoes, though, the shoes may not be the only cause, so consult a medical professional.